Friday, June 25, 2010

English Lessons

For the past few months my friend Kenzie and I have been teaching an English class. I am sure this must worry all of you reading my blog and noticing more than a few errors. Sorry! There is so much editing I can do before I would become disgusted with my writing or never actually put posts up.  Anyway, I have have been passing on my excellent grasp of the English language to the five women in my class, and I actually think we did a pretty good job. I'm not always sure about some of the grammar rules and when I break things down for them I sometimes feel like English is just a big mess, but they are getting the hang of it. These woman aren't studying to take the big test at the end of high school, they are studying for when they travel, or so that they can help their children become fluent. That gives us the freedom to teach them things that will come in handy on a daily basis, not what the present perfect continuous tense, whatever that means, is. Plus it helps that the woman are so nice and they put up excellently with being taught by a couple of teenagers. They bring us coffee and treats, and focus while we teach them. They even came to see us preform our dance and me give my speech at my high school. When I first started teaching the class, I as so excited. I truly believed that we had power to really make an impact on these woman's lives. If we helped them better their English then maybe they could get a better job, or help their children move up. Part way through I became sort of disillusioned, they were missing classes, and not studying and though I still enjoyed teaching them it started to feel like more of a chore. When they started slacking off, we started slacking off as well, not putting at much time into our lesson plans, or explaining things as clearly. In the end though, we pulled through and I think we all got something pretty great out of the class. These English classes won't be a deciding factor in their lives but it was a chance for them and us to get to know an age group that we wouldn't normally interact with from a different country.


A week ago we had our last dinner and said goodbye to them for who knows how long. They said they wanted to come to the states, maybe even do some kind of exchange with the students they teach at the elementary school. Though I know it probably won't work out, I really hope it does. The whole time we were teaching them it felt so funny for them to call us "teacher", probably because they all have about 10 years on us, but I think it was also because though we were teaching them English a case could easily have been made for them having been the teachers. They corrected not only our Turkish but explained things about Turkish culture, and were one more window into Turkish life. After six months of four hours a week lessons, it was sad to say goodbye.

Thursday, June 24, 2010

Ailem

In less than a week from today I will be at the airport in Adana, getting ready to board a plane to begin my trip back to the United States. That said, let the sentimental blogging begin! I can't believe how fast this year has gone by, it doesn't seem at all like I left ten months ago, but as the seasons come full swing I can see the differences.

For one last trip with my host family before I leave, they took me to Maraş a city about three hours north-east of Adana. My mom's brother lives there with his wife and daughter, and we stayed there for a night in September on our way to the village my host mom grew up in. Like last time we were supposed to continue on to the village but the trip was canceled. I was disappointed that we weren't going back there, I thought it would be nice to see the comparison between then and now. Then I knew nothing, now at least I know some, but I liked getting to see Maraş. It is a really old and surprisingly beautiful city. Lots of open shops and trees surrounded by brownish-red hills and dotted in the center by a castle that sits above the rest of the city. We went, my host mother, Dilşad, grandmother and grandfather, and great aunt, on a hot Saturday and with four of us squeezed into the back it felt like a long car trip. We only spent one night, most of it in their home, eating and drinking tea. We did go to the old section to buy more things, to stuff my already over-stuffed bag. I bought spices, dried eggplant and peppers to make a Turkish meal, a rolling pin , and at my host mom's encouragement, a pair of shoes though that is probably the last thing I need. Most of the time in Maraş I filled by playing with their precocious daughter Liya, we went through her children's book and she taught me words I didn't know. Even without such a high language barrier like before, I still find myself sitting awkwardly sometimes, not really sure what to do with but for the most part I enjoy being around my family here, and I think they like having me. They told me that they had gotten used to my being there and considered me as part of the family. They say I dress more like a Turk, they love it when I wear skirts because Dilşad never does, and that my Turkish is excellent. Though the real test of whether I have adapted to being here does not ride on the way I look, or the way I speak, but really, on how well I can make a pot of Turkish coffee. Ok, that's an exaggeration, but it is taken seriously. Perspective brides make it for her potential fiance's family, and it is made for most guests.  I liked it from the beginning but the past few months  I have started making it a lot, for myself and host mom or friends so I am pretty confident, but making it for my host grandparents and great aunt was nerve racking. Turks are kind but they don't coddle when it comes to making Turkish food properly which is good and bad. I carefully scooped the coffee and focused only on it while waiting for the grounds to thicken at the top and the rest to boil. So when my great aunt (the most critical one) declared that it was well done, and I am officially a Turkish child (though I shouldn't watch the tray when I carry it, and I should serve from oldest to youngest) I blushed with pride. "Eline sağlık" (health to you hands) they said,  "Afiyet Olsun" (bon appetit) I beemed.


After along trip back from Maraş a city a couple hours north of Adana we went to our family friends house to go for a swim. It was about 9:30 by the time we actually got there but at this time of year Adana never gets cold, and it was an especially balmy night. Jumping into the cool water brought me right back to my first night in Adana with my new family. An hour or so after arriving in Adana over ten months ago we went to  the same friends house and jumped into the same pool. Completely unaccustomed to the heat that hit me when I stepped off the plane and onto the hot pavement of Adana's airport there was nothing better than being submerged in the quiet water. Back then I knew almost nothing about my family, Dilşad spoke with me in English but it was sort of awkward, and my host mom and I couldn't exchange any words at all. After swimming in the pool that night I quickly feel asleep on the couch, exhausted from travel. But last night I sat on the porch with my host mom, sister, and their friends and ate fruit, sipped tea, and talked. The difference is astonishing, less because I can now speak, and more because I feel so comfortable around all of them. It's natural, Dilşad making fun of me, me trying to translate my retort quickly and usually to no avail and then my mom and her friend defending me. It all feels so normal now, part of the routine, which I guess is why it doesn't seem at all real that I won't be part of it anymore.

With my immediate family, Dilşad and my host mom, Nihal things couldn't be much better and a small but important sign of that is the names we use to identify each other . She introduces me to people as her daughter and only if asked explains that I am an American exchange student. When she is talking to me she calls me aşkim (my love) or charlottecim (my charlotte) and in turn I call her anne or annecim(my mom). Dilşad usually refers to my as kardeş (sibling) or fil (elephant), a slight at my weight gain here.  I'll miss sitting around with them eating dinner, or watching TV and honestly I think they will miss me, especially Dilşad who will have nobody to make fun of.

Wednesday, June 9, 2010

Kına Gecesi

On Friday I had to give a speech and do a performance with all the other NSI-Y girls at my high school graduation. I'm in 11th grade this year so why we did it at the senior graduation I am not really sure, but I can tell you that I was not looking forward to the performance. In fact I was dreading it because even if everything went perfectly well, it would still be very very embarrassing, and that it was, but not as bad as I thought it would be.

The speech was to say thank you to all the people that have helped and influenced us this year, and the dance, well the dance was...I'm not really sure what the dance was for, entertainment? Last year the foreign exchange students at my school did something from Shakespeare, but we were roped into doing something a little bit more localized, a very traditional Turkish song and dance. It is called the Kına Gecesi, and it is a dance that they do around a bride the night before her wedding. The song was based off a girl who a very very long time ago was married off to a man who lived in a village a few hours away from her family. Basically the man was really terrible and beat his wife and because the woman lived so far away from her family she couldn't visit them. She begs her family to come and see her but they don't come until she gets really sick and is on her deathbed, she sings the song about her life just as they get there to watch her die. So, for some reason this is the song they sing right before weddings and everyone cries, and for a more obscure reason, we were singing it for the graduation. Believe me, it's not as weird as it sounds. Turks love to hear foreigners speak their language and sing their songs, it's very much that 'watch the monkey dance' kind of thing. Anyway if that weren't bad enough I was the only one who had to do the speech by myself because I go to school alone, and the head AFS person from Istanbul was coming to watch my speech. Not to mention that it would be in front of the entire senior class, all my teachers, and anyone that came to watch the graduation. Needless to say, I was very very nervous.

The night of the performance, I  was struggling to keep my composure as the seats filled up and we watched the seniors file down the aisle. They, the seniors, were sitting on the back of the stage on these sort of steps, my teachers to the side, and the audience in front, so I was pretty much surrounded. We all had these hands free sort of microphones that looked like something Brittany Spears might wear which was pretty cool, but it kept slipping around and just added to my anxiety. Plus after my speech I had about five seconds to change before we went on to do the song. I kept it together for the most part. I was super nervous, and definitely stumbled over more than a few words, but I made it through. I talked in my speech about my first few days at the school, learning Turkish with the help of my classmates teachers, friends and family. I thanked my teachers and told a few funny stories about mix ups and embarrassments, and talked about how much I have grown to love living here. The dance went off with only a few minor hitches, the tie on my skirt thing that goes over the Jasmine-esk pants kept slipping and I stepped on it every time I moved. Fortunately the dance itself is not complicated at all, it is basically just us walking around a chair where the bride (Kenzie in our case) sits. The challenging part is the song, I was worried that our voices would be too loud and sound terrible, but it actually sounded alright.Overall I guess the night was a success!

When my host mom turned on the video later -my real mom paid my host sister to film the whole thing, though Dilşad would have done it anyway-I had to leave the room. It was so embarrassing to listen to myself speak and it sounded to me like a lot of mistakes, but the feedback I got was very encouragıng. The Turks who heard it were really impressed, though I can't tell if that was because they are still shocked I speak any Turkish at all, or if it actually was good, but I did my best. I am happy that at least in some small way I was able to show my appreciation to all the people that helped me this year. And hey if the speech made both my real mom and my host mom cry, then I guess it is a success!


I'm not sure if you can watch the videos, they are from Dilşad's facebook, but here are the links!


Speech: http://www.facebook.com/home.php?ref=home#!/video/video.php?v=410897608088&ref=mf

Dance: http://www.facebook.com/home.php?ref=home#!/video/video.php?v=410906268088&ref=mf

Wednesday, June 2, 2010

Exploremak-ing

At some point this year while struggling through writing an essay for my Turkish class, I wanted to use the verb, to explore but I simply couldn't muster up the energy to look it up in my dictionary. Instead I added the suffix -mak to the end because every infinitive verb in Turkish ends with either -mak or -mek. It wasn't the first time we have experimented with Tinglish and certainly not the last, but it has a nice ring to it and Rebecca brought it up again this weekend when we were able to do a fair bit of exploremak-ing.
 Saturday afternoon Rebecca and I set out at a leisurely pace to do something a little bit out of the ordinary, to take the train to Tarsus. The train trip is a little under and hour and at about $2 you really can't find a better way to travel. Tarsus is the birthplace of St. Paul and is a very historical city though a lot of that has been destroyed in the past couple thousand years since St. Paul was there. We didn't have any idea where we were going but we had some idea of what we wanted to see and figured we would play the rest by year. We ended up stumbling across this ancient Roman road that I had read about in my guidebook. There we found a very unhelpful man working at a information booth, who while I the watered plants, retrieved maps for us. We also found our way to St. Paul's well where I stole some water, hopefully St. Paul won't take offense. We wandered through the old streets and were talked to everywhere we went. A group of women invited us to join them for tea and a little girl on her bike offered to give us a tour. We did join the women for tea and when the little girl left us she said that she was delighted to have done it, and she meant it. For such an ancient city they don't seem to see a lot of tourists, to me it sort of had a desolate, post-apocalyptic feel to me. We also visited Cleopatra's Gate which has little to do with Cleopatra herself except that it is said that she and Mark Antony met in Tarsus. At St. Paul's church (built in the 19th century, so also little to do with St. Paul) we ran into a group of Americans which was exciting!I got pretty sick on the way back, probably from not enough water and too much sun but nonetheless it was a successful day! 
The next day, we went on another adventure of sorts. One of the the AFS leader's husbands planned a trip for us to Karatepe National Park and the surrounding areas.It was originally planed for us AFS girls but because three of us are away visiting with our families that left just Rebecca and I, our host families, Kenzie's host family, and an assortment of other Turks. Karatepe itself is an open-air museum on a site which has been inhabited for almost 4000 years. It was a pretty beautiful little hike, though it was REALLY hot. Jeans were a really bad choice on my part. Though it was cool to see ruins that date back to the 13th century, if felt a little bit like a sculpture garden, all evenly spaced  out along the paths. We spent the rest of the day visiting ruins in their more natural settings. An unceremonious roadside stop led past some small houses to one of the most awesome arches I have ever seen. Through the arch you come to a big field littered with columns and other remnants of the Roman era in Turkey, it was amazing. The edge of the field meets steep cliffs that crawl up to a castle on a steep rocky out cove. We felt the presence of the Hellenistic period castle as Rebecca and I scurried around the hills surrounding it. The Turks gave us a hard time for being unsafe but we couldn't be bothered, it was so fun! We scampered from one unguarded ruin to the next like mountain goats enjoying the scenery and picturing what took place there hundreds and hundreds of years ago. It was terribly hot, but totally worth it. The best part was either laying down in what we believed to be thousand year old tombs or climbing rickety scaffolding to the top of the arch. It was a wonderful day and just went to remind me of how much Turkey has to offer!


On another note, home in less than a month!

Monday, May 31, 2010

Istanbul'da Bahar

The time that Ebba was here was sort of like an alternate universe. There we were,a Swede and an American speaking Spanish in Istanbul, a city I have spent practically no time in this year. It was a wonderful universe to be in though, and I miss it already. Ebba and I were in Istanbul for lovely five days, and we were able to see a lot. We stayed with our friend Mertcan who was also on our exchange to Spain. It was nice to see the a more residential area of Istanbul because it is a HUGE city and those parts tend to get missed by travellers. Plus his family was super sweet and seemed to enjoy having us there. Mertcan lives on the Asian side, so to get to the European side we took various different methods of transportation. During the day we took the bus and then the ferry, the quickest way to cross to the European side, and at night, buses or mini-buses called Dolmus. Depending on the traffic it could take anywhere from 45minutes-2hours to get to his house. The ferry boat ride was beautiful though, a little picturesque boat that crosses the sparkling blueish-green water. We spent most of our time on the European side though because that is were the main sights of Istanbul are located.


Sultanahmet is home to some of the worlds oldest and most famous sights, such as the Aya Sofya and the Blue Mosque. If you had been with Ebba and I as we toured these places in awe you too would have been subjected to listening to me read excerpts out of the guidebook, just as my mother would have done. Ebba and I had no real agenda except that we wanted to see as much as possible of Istanbul without ever feeling rushed, and for the most part we accomplished that. We were able to see most of the main sights-Istanbul has and endless amount-with the freedom to just wander around. One day we wandered from the Kapllı Carsı (The Grand Bazaar) down the hill towards the water and ended up in this very quiet little neighborhood completely empty of all tourists. We sat down at a quaint cafe with roses on the colorful tables and drank tea out of pretty glasses. The friendly old man who owned the cafe immediately switched the roses on our table for prettier ones saying that pretty girls needed pretty roses. It was exactly the kind of place you hope to run across in a city like Istanbul, a place that holds onto the past without effort. We enjoyed our tea in the quiet and then asked for directions back to the center. Turns out we had wandered so far away that the easiest way was to take the train back. The owner of the man reminded us that there was plenty of food and tea, and absolutely no rush, before pointing us in the direction of the train. I love being able to wander comfortable, not because I think we won't get lost, but rather Becca's there is no reason not to get lost. We had no idea where were going a lot of the time, and when we wanted to set ourselves straight I would just ask somebody.

We spent a fair bit of time in Taksim, the center of new Istanbul. It starts at the main square and then you can follow Istikklal Caddesi past tons of European shopping and little roads that lead off like veins from a leaf. There is a ton to do and see there and it seems to be the place to be when it comes to nightlife. I think one of the best parts about Istanbul was being able to communicate in Turkish. It was so fun to respond to the constant stream of comments from vendors and people on the street in their own language. After even just a couple words in Turkish it was instant astonishment. In Spain I felt like it was pretty normal for somebody to speak Spanish, but here it is so unusual that they seem kind of flattered that I am trying to learn their language. Almost everyone asked how I spoke it and where I was from. Ebba was a good sport about my speaking Turkish all the time, and reminded me from time to time that I needed to translate for her.


It is hard for me to believe that exactly two years ago I was on the same timeline as I am here, with only a month or so left to go. I realized after talking to her I am in a  similar mindset to when I was in Spain. Just like then I feel like this year will go on forever, contrary to the evidence. This place has just become so much a part of my every day life that I forget that in no time at all I will be back on San Juan Island. It is a bittersweet feeling, on one hand I am really excited to get home. I look forward to seeing my friends and family and being back on the Island. On the other hand though, I know I will really miss living here, even if that reality hasn't exactly caught up with me yet. For now though, I am trying to be as present as possible, enjoying each moment here.

Sunday, May 9, 2010

Friends and Family

On this Sunday morning I am the only one awake, Dilsad has already gone to her lessons, and my host mom and our guests are still asleep. This is usually the case on weekends, I get up at around 9:00 or so, make myself a cup of coffee, and read or write my blog. It is nice to be awake in the quiet. Today though there is one big difference, last night there was a wedding last night and we have some relatives staying with us, and I have a guest as well. My friend Ebba is here visiting from Sweden. Ebba was on the same exchange as me to Spain in 2007-08 and she was one of my best friends there. Though I lived in Barcelona and she lived in a city called Mataro about 45 minutes north we were able to meet up all the time. We explored all over Barcelona and had a bizillion adventures. Many of which we giggled about last night. Her being here reminds me that thought there are inevitable similarities between my exchange to Spain and my exchange here, my life was so different. As is the Spanish way we had a lot of freedom, and we took advantage of that. That is not to say my life was better there, but just starkly different.


She arrived last night at about 10:30 and hurled into the Turkish lifestyle. A bunch of family was over after the wedding so like always we sat around drinking tea and chatting, well not so much chatting as yelling to be heard over one another. They were all curious about Ebba and for the first time I was doing full on translating in Turkish. The tricky part is that Ebba and I used to speak Spanish together, and it is a real challenge translating from Turkish to Spanish. I get it all confused and end up speaking Turkish to Ebba and Spanish to my host family, so eventually we reverted back to English. It was pretty funny, my host family kind of just yelled at Ebba, thinking if they spoke loudly enough she would understand and told her how much they loved me and how I was part of their family, it was really sweet and Ebba took it all in stride. It did make me feel good about my Turkish though, nothing makes you realize how far you have come than seeing somebody who can't understand anything.


We stayed up till about 3:00am or so chatting and reminiscing about our friends and families in Spain, and catching up on the two years we have missed. I can't believe that I left Spain almost two years ago, and talking to Ebba it doesn't feel like it. I am so excited to show her around Adana, well mainly just show her the food I have been eating for the past eight months. I guess we will start this morning as we have another family meal to attend. Then on Wednesday we will go to Istanbul for five days! I can't wait to explore that city!

Monday, May 3, 2010

Looking Forward to May Flowers

Last week I reluctantly awoke at the ungodly hour of 6:00am to go for a run. I had no desire to pull myself out of the warmth of my bed especially since I had woken up to the sound of thunder, a sure sign of rain, but my friend Kenzie was waiting. It started drizzling as soon as we left the overhang to of my building but what choice did we have to go, we had already woken up. So we set off, barely a car on the road, trying to avoid the dogs that roam the streets in packs during the night. It felt good to be running outside instead of the basement where my gym was, but the thunder and lightning were foretelling and slightly intimidating. Sure enough it wasn't long before it was pouring rain and we were drenched almost immediately. I considered turning around but Kenzie wouldn't hear of it, and it wasn't terribly cold. We ran past the train tracks in the direction of the Toros mountains. We ran past a man with a little road side stand in what seemed like the middle of nowhere, he looked at us like we were completely crazy. We ran past the big fair building and up a hill just as the sky let loose a round of hail like little pebbles that bounced off our skin. As we got to the top of the hill we could see out see over the sprawling valleys that led to the base of the mountains. We stood still for a minute but soon felt the cold creeping into our bones and ran back the way we had come. The man on the side of the road yelled to us that we would get sick and offered to let us sit under his tent but we waved away the offer and ran home. By the time we made it back to my apartment I was completely drenched, and with each step my feet squished. I was as quiet as possible as I slipped through the door, all was silent and I thought I had gotten away with my crime-that of getting wet-which of course makes you very very ill.


I thought I had gotten away with it but my host mom found my sopping wet clothing from the run and forbid me to run until the weather gets nice. I honestly don't think my host mom has ever forbid me to do anything before, she just kind of suggest that I don't, so I don't. You wouldn't argue with my host mom either. But it wasn't long before I was caught in another Adana-style flash flood.


Kenzie, Sahalie and I had finished teaching our English classes and were killing a bit of time before we had our Turkish class, and what better way to kill time than to get a bite to eat. We went to one of our favorite haunts a Turkish bakery called Kardeşler (brothers), they are all over the place, on almost every block you can catch a smell of the pastries and bread wafting through the air. We bought these delicious fried dough balls that are then soaked in syrup call Lokma and just as we sat down the rain started thundering in. The noise of it was amazing bouncing off the tin roof, we could barely hear make out each others voices. Everyone in the cafe positioned their chairs facing the big glass doors as if were some enthralling movie, or a soccer match. People without umbrellas huddled together under any overhang they could find and even those with went as fast as they could. As the cafe filled up with people in various states of wetness it began to feel like we were all in this together, like we may never get out and like Lost we would all become friends. Apparently we weren't the only ones with that idea, these girls came over from a table of a big group of kids and just sat down at our table, as if they were people we knew that had just gotten up to go to the bathroom. It was funny and slightly awkward but mostly nice. They were around our age, still in high school, and had noticed we looked like foreigners so decided to talk to us for a while. We talked about school, what we were doing there, where we lived, etc. I love that in Turkey is is perfectly normal for people do sit with strangers without any explanation whatsoever. People are friendly here.


We had hoped that the rain would stop before we had to go to our Turkish class, but it seemed if anything to be coming down harder. The roads had turned to rivers and the cars threw up jets of water as if a parting the sea. I had my trusty U of Chicago umbrella but Kenzie and Sahalie were just in tee-shirts. It was only two blocks to our lessons but enough to attract the attention of everybody we went by. Crossing the road there was water up to my shins, and cars driving by splashed water up to our necks. The rain drenched Sahalie's hair until the ringlets stuck to her face as she squealed and danced through the rain. We giggled uncontrollably as ran by people standing under the awnings, and they yelled at us to take cover. By the time we made it to our Turkish class we were soaking, only to find out it had been canceled due rain induced road closure. We sat in a cafe close by and sipped hot Turkish Coffee as we willed our clothes to dry. Rebecca and Sophie were already there and laughed as we came dripping into the warmth or the cafe and Sahalie actually dumped water out of her flats. We sat there for a while and the rain died down only slightly before we decided to get home. One of the guys at the cafe graciously offered to pay for us because that too is pretty normal here.


The rain has been fun and exhilarating. I like how here it pours for only a few hours at the most unlike at home where is can be constant rain or drizzle for days or weeks. After these storms though, I am looking forward to may, the rise in temperature and the flowers that my host family and I planted to bloom on our balcony to bloom.