Sunday, September 27, 2009

The Village

On Thursday we took off again for the holiday (Byram in Turkish.) This holiday is called the sugar holiday or the Ramadan holiday because it marks the end of Ramadan and you eat a lot of sweets, actually just a lot of food in general. Though we left on Thursday we spent one night in Maraş where my host uncle lives with his wife and very cute, very spoiled daughter. Friday we set off for the village, the drive was beautiful, sprawling hills and mountains dotted with little houses and farms. There are times when because parts of Turkey are so modern and western I forget that Turkey has this whole other part to it, and this trip really reminded me of that. The village is exactly what you would expect from a Turkish village complete with dirt roads and donkeys pulling carts. The house is very cute with a little kitchen that produces outstanding food and the 'old style' bathroom which is basically a porcelain hole in the floor.

We were at the village from Friday to Tuesday afternoon and it felt like a very long time to me. My family is very sweet, especially my great aunt who nicknamed me Fatma and is always speaking to me in rapid Turkish. Fatma by the way is supposed to be a very classic Turkish name but literally sounds like Fat-ma, though I didn't really have a choice in the matter it is starting to really grow on me. For Byram younger family are supposed to go from house to house to visit the older people and their families, and to every house you go you are offered this smelly hand stuff, tea and some sort of yummy food. Though I enjoyed the tea and food it felt like a lot of people talking about me a lot and maybe it was just my imagination I felt like I was the butt of a lot of jokes, but hey I guess that comes with the territory. At one house after about twenty minutes of conversation my host sister looked at me and said "ah they are still talking about you!" It was frustrating to not understand what was being said and I felt a little bit like a pet but it was really interesting to be a part of the holiday.

A little bit more on the food!
I fasted the last day of Ramadan and though I was hungry all day it was totally worth it for the feast it came with. Dilşad and I helped make this past that is served on big platters with chicken and beef in the middle that everyone picks off. There is also huge amounts of home grown tomato salad with cucumbers, onions and all kinds of spices. Breakfasts were this kind of fried dough that expanded and looked like little baguettes but were hollow and delicious. These were eaten with jam, yogurt, cheese, nutella, or really anything. Also there was more tomato salad, always fresh bread, Aryan (a drink of yogurt and water that I am pretty fond of) more tea, and Turkish coffee. I could go on and on.

The holiday was nice but I was excited to get back to Adana. It is starting to cool down, and that is very nice especially since my school uniform consists of gray pants and a polo. School started Friday, and I think it is too soon to tell how it is going to be but I am in 11th grade, the same as my sister. I will write more on it after I have had a full week.

Thursday, September 17, 2009

For a moment I felt like Adana was starting to cool down, but that was just one 'brisk' morning and by noon it was back to scorching heat again. Fortunately though, we have been getting away from the city a bit.

Last Thursday, Dilşad and I took the bus to İscanderun to stay with my host fathers family at their beach house. İscanderun is a large town, but small city with a busy center and summer houses dotting every bit of the shore line. The beach house is part of one of these little neighborhoods filled with white adobe houses with big wrap around porches where all meals are eaten. The house is owned by my host dads brother Cankat but their other brother Eran and his family stay there during the summer as well. The first morning we got up earlier than I have become used to and went for a swim in the beautiful Mediterranean Sea. The water was warm and clear and I never wanted to get out.

Instead of spending the next night at the beach house we went with Dilşad's aunt to the "yaila" which translates into summer cabin and are from what I understand are usually located in the hills, or maybe that is just this one. I'm not really sure. The road to the yaila is about 30 minutes but it felt significantly longer. The majority of the road is gravel, steep, windy and has just enough room for two cars to pass if both are going slow, which they never are. But we made it up and back fine and the view was well worth it. You could see one direction all the way to İscanderun and the see and the other direction into the sprawling hills.
the family comes to these little somewhat makeshift cabins to escape the summer heat, and it was nice and cool. Dilşad's aunt stays up there with her husband and mother about 2 months our of the year. Her mother Dilşad's grandmother is the sweetest woman and very typical Turkish. She offered to teach me Turkish, which of course failed miserably because the language is impossibly hard, but it was nice anyway.

The next morning we went to these beautiful fields in the mountains and got to pick blackberries, (which taste different from those in the United States) tomatoes, and green beans. The scenery was beautiful but the labor looks hard as there isn't any machinery to help with the work.
 
We spent the next night at beach house and then went back to hot Adana. Tonight, we are going to my host mother's village for about a week to celebrate the end of Ramadan I thınk. The celebration lasts for three days so it should be fun!

Monday, September 7, 2009

Adana

Yesterday marked my first week in Adana, Turkey and I am surprised by how comfortable I already feel here. My host sister Dilşad and I are getting along really well. She is playful and happy and excited to have me here. Her English is really good so she has been acting as my translator and teacher and so far has not gotten tired of my endless questions-but I have only been here a week. Nihal my host mother is very kind and though we are separated by the language barrier she has made me feel at home. When Dilşad is not here we connect by studying my Turkish books together and through pantomime and guesswork I think I improving.

Turkish is not an easy language but it's not terribly difficult either. What makes it hard is how unfamiliar the sounds are and not being able to guess even a little bit at words like in Spanish because every one is very different. But thanks to my lessons I am not completely lost and there is hope that eventually I will pick it up. Turkish is a very beautiful language and I am anxious to learn it.

As for my home, Adana is not a beautiful city but it has a certain charm. It's condensed center is packed full of little shops, bread, nut, and fruit vendors while the sprawling suburbs are made up of thousands of unorganized apartment buildings. One of these apartments is my new home about a half hour away from the center. Our apartment is good sides though every bit of space is well used. My room is big but also holds the computer so it is kind of shared with everyone. There is not much in our neighborhood except for other randomly placed apartment buildings but out school is very close and public transpoırtation is easy and cheep.

There are some downfalls to living in the desert. Besides missing the ocean, trees, and other natural beauty of the San Juan's, Adana is hot. Everyday is in the mid to upper 90s and it does not get cool at night. I haven't had to put on even a light sweater and it doesn't feel like I will be needing one anytime soon. To make it worse the Turks wear jeans all the time. I understand the no mini skirts or shorts which are hardly seen here but jeans are simply awful. Fortunately everywhere is air conditioned so as long as I'm not outside I'm alright.

The Traffic is terrifying! Many roads do not have lines to indicate where cars should be and if they do they are not so much rules as suggestions as to which side of the road you should be on. I don't really understand when blinkers are used but it's not to indicate going to the other side of the road. Pedistrans do not have the right of way and it's common to cross half the road, wait for traffic to pass inches away on either side of you and then keep going.

But besides that I love living here. The Turkish people do not seem judgemental but rather curious and interested in me. They all make an effort to talk to me and when they can't they just keep speaking in Turkish. wherever you go even if it is a shoe store or a visit with a friend you are offered Turkish coffee, (which İ am really starting to like) tea or water. The other day one of my mom's friends read my Turkish coffee grounds and it reminded me of Jane Burton reading my tea leaves. I was promised lots of good things and though I'm skeptical I followed all the instructions to make them come true. The food is amazing, lots of meet and spices. Adana is famous for a certain type of Kebab that is a little bit spicy but delicious. Whenever you out to eat you are served Turkish salads, yogurt sauces, and appetizers before the main meal. And after there is always fruit and yummy desserts.There is so much food and this is especially true during Ramadan because after a full day of fasting people want to eat well.

My sister and I fasted yesterday for the first day day. We ate a meal at 3am because after 4 you can't eat again until 7:30. The fasting was not too terrible but since I don't work or have school I didn't actually have to do anything all day, I can't imagine working all day. I lasted all the way till dinner when I forgot and had a sip of water, it was disappointing.
 
So far all has gone really well. Thursday we will go to my host uncles beach house and then to my host moms village. School doesn't start for another couple weeks but I am looking forward to starting Turkish classes.